Nigerien Wodaabe, in Burkina Faso's capital, Ouagadougou, for one of Africa's most important arts festivals, wave hello - and goodbye - to Fespaco, the pan-African film festival. The 18th edition, held from 22 February to 1 March, 2003, celebrated actors and actresses, with the theme, The Actor in the Creation and Promotion of African Film.

Fespaco's 2003 competition, a showcase of African cinema held every two years, was won by the Mauritanian director, Abderrhamane Sissako, for his film Heremakono (Waiting for Happiness). The slow-moving, beautifully shot film explored questions of identity, home and longing for other lands and opportunities, a theme addressed by a number of other films at the festival. But the cinema-going public in Ouagadougou did not appear to share the jury's enthusiasm - Heremakono was not the popular choice. Audiences preferred the faster moving films, like Kabala, with which they could more readily identify.

As always the city put on a dazzling display to welcome the festival. Ofeibea Quist-Arcton was in the city to report for allAfrica.com and to host the BBC's daily radio programme, Fespaco Live.