13 October 2007
Kampala — If you are looking for the ultimate family get-away, then look no further, Lydia Namubiru discovered it in the chimpanzee sanctuary on lake Victoria
MY journey to Ngamba Island was one of many firsts - my first ride in a speed boat, my first time to see a flock of geese floating effortlessly on the lake and my first time on an island - the list is endless.
Far from being a scary experience, the journey on water, I discovered, is exhilarating. As we raced in the middle of the semi-sphere formed by the horizon kissing the lake surface on all sides, whizzing past fishermen in traditional boats, leaving white foamy waves in our wake, I felt like an air borne bird - happy, liberated and daring.
I was almost wistful when our destination came into view. I could have gone on racing in circles on the lake for the whole day.
Ngamba is an island on Lake Victoria 23km south of Entebbe. This 40 hectare piece of land was purchased in 1998 by the Chimpanzee Sanctuary and Wildlife Conservation Trust (CSWCT) as a home for orphaned and recovered chimpanzees.
It has undergone a Cinderella-like transformation from a fishing pseudo-village to a lush green forested sanctuary for chimpanzees, home to 120 bird species and a host of other animal species and a beautiful camping ground that is an amazing blend between modern and traditional eco-friendly lifestyles.
The island is home to 42 chimpanzees. The chimps on the island were hunted down and sold as pets, but later recovered by wildlife authorities and taken to the island.
On the island, they have a safe home, medical care, nutritious meals and above all the company of fellow chimps. The chimps mostly spend their day roaming the 39 hectares of forest.
This forest provides a variety of natural foods for the chimps but their diet is supplemented by fresh fruits and vegetables, posho, millet porridge and milk for the young ones.
Watching the chimps feed is the highlight of a visit to the island for any wildlife lover. From a raised viewing platform, a visitor gets a close up view of the chimps. They are amazingly human-like. Every one of them has an individual character.
Tumbo, who is second-in-command of the community, did not run after food but just sat in the middle of the feeding area waiting for food to be thrown at him and no one dared touched any piece that landed near him.
Robby ate what went his way and when it was finished, he would whistle at the caretakers for more. Rambo who is the youngest sat at a safe distance from the flurry of activity and waited for an attentive caretaker to give him his meal.
Smart Oketch picked the pieces that fell below the fence using a stick. He used a dry one to avoid being electrocuted. Poor Katie did not have much of lunch, she has a swelling of the ano-genital area, a sign that she is ready for sexual activity and the boys just could not let her be.
After the feeding session, another smart one went around scavenging for all the left over pieces and went away with an armload. The viewing platform is excellent for taking photos of the chimps and the island.
During the feeding session, our guide Gerald told us about the chimps: power wrangles among them, competition for females, very ingenious tricks they use to escape through the fence, how they arrest fishermen, clean their overnight holding facility after observing the cleaners for some time, how they treat themselves with herbs and cushion their hammocks with grass at night to make a soft bed.
After watching the chimps feed, I was taken around the rest of the one hectare that houses the staff quarters and camping grounds. I was awed by the fact that chimpanzees are treated using human drugs like panadol and amoxyl.
The people on the island have running water, flush toilets and showers.
The sanctuary is an eco-friendly project with composting toilets, rainwater collection, solar energy for electricity and hot water and environmentally friendly waste management. It is indeed a model village on eco-friendly living.
Ngamba Island is not just about chimps. I ran into a monitor lizard as we strolled about on the island. Carry a pair of binoculars and you will have a field day watching the 120 species of birds that inhabit the island, go down to the lake and watch the crocodiles and otters.
Alternatively, you can enjoy the beautiful view of the lake from the island's long beach, take a swim in the lake, take a sunset boat cruise or simply sit on the deck of their East African style tents and watch the sun set over Lake Victoria.
You can also enjoy sumptuous local food and freshly caught tilapia in either the covered or open dining area besides the lake. It is a place where you can buy yourself a beer or a cup of tea and sip it by the lakeside.
You can also buy local souvenirs at the island's shop. Later in the evening if you choose to stay the night, you will share your experiences of the island and beyond with the staff and other visitors over a camp fire.
For the lovey dovey couple, you might want to go and spend a night by the lakeside. With four East African style camping tents complete with ensuite bathroom and toilet, Ngamba Island can take on a party of eight for an excursion of one or more nights.
All the funds raised go towards supporting and conserving the chimpanzees on the island. CSWCT is a charity that cares for captive chimpanzees and contributes to the survival of those in the wild.
I reluctantly left the island at 5:00pm with a tinge of envy for those who would be around to watch the chimps' evening routine.
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