allAfrica.com: Ethiopia: Seasonal Piety (Page 1 of 1)

The procession was majestic and deliberately perpetual. As the Tabot and the huge procession slowly moved through the villages, men and women came out of their residences and kissed the ground and ululated to pay their respect of faith in the passing Tabot.

The month of January in Ethiopia, being a harvesting season, is one of the busiest months thick with parties, weddings, secular and religious celebrations among which Timket (Epiphany) is the most unique religious festivity celebrated by Christians. It comes 14 days after the Ethiopian Christmas and is widely observed throughout the country to commemorate the Baptism of Jesus Christ by Saint John in the River Jordan (Yordanos).

The clergy often like to preach quotations from the Gospel of Saint John during holidays like Timket. Many people, however, wonder if the lay community listening to the Gospel really knows the whereabouts of the River Jordan where Jesus was baptised. Since recent times, minor violations have been encountered at the celebrations sites. This year's Timket was celebrated peacefully.

I had attended the Timket celebrations at Addisu Gabya last Saturday and Sunday and had a taste of the experiences of some devout Christens with a full sense of piety in the face of all temptations and competitions otherwise. The so called Addisu or Semien Gabya is exactly three kilometres north of St. George Cathedral Square at the end of Belay Zelleke Road where the newly upgraded Addis/Godjam Road starts. The NOC gas filling station has become the centre stage for various celebrations including Timket.

Earlier in the day, a group of us had rounded up our weekly walks and joined the procession accompanying the Egziharab Tabot that temporarily moves from the hilltop east of the former Ajip filling station. The gravel access track meanders down the sloping terrain before it linked to the asphalted Addis/Godjam Road.

The priests in their gorgeous regalia under the shades of their big umbrellas embroidered in velvet with golden tassels were chanting loud while a couple of deacons who were beating huge drums and jingling bells to the tune of the hymns and songs. Youngsters in special uniforms and gowns walked in file clapping their hands and chanting, adding heat and glory to the ecclesiastical procession. The lay community was sweating in singing and dancing.

A couple of traditional singers were playing their masinquos (local string instruments) praising God and the Apostles. Everybody seemed to be overwhelmed by the spiritual ecstasy. People ululated at intervals spontaneously. All eyes focused on the sacred Tabot being carried by one of the priests dressed in shining embroidered drapes. Three priests held three big colourful umbrellas to give shade to the Tabot.

At the top of the Entoto mountain range you could see the landscape covered with green bushes and eucalyptus trees that seemed to sway and bow as if they were also paying tribute to the Tabots. Pack animals heavily laden with leaves and fuel wood gallop down the winding road as if they were dashing not to miss the show with attendants trailing behind them carrying their long sticks. They too were taken aback when the ecclesiastical procession advanced.

More often than not these beasts of burden litter the wide Japanese-built road with their refuses that are quickly collected by the dung gathering community that lurks by the roadside. Somebody owes these waste collectors some gratitude for their swift reactions to keep the road as clean as possible free of charge.

As we were trailing behind the procession on the Addis/Godjam Road, we noticed that a whole bunch of Addis-bound trucks was waiting still until the procession moved and made way.

We saw a man blowing his horn walking in the opposite direction and broadcasting the death of a member the neighbourhood. He was wearing an old sombrero style straw hat and a very short overcoat that seemed to have seen better days. The man must have drenched himself as it were in a barrel of tella (local home brewed beer) judging by the whiff of smell emanating from him and the way he swayed from right to left. Some children were uttering words like 'Tejo DJ' and the likes.

From the advantage of an eavesdropper we heard that some people were arguing that the dead person, whoever he or she may be, was lucky to have died on such an occasion as Timket.

Others were of a different school of thought. They argued that a person who dies at a time when all priests and deacons are off duty attending the Timket celebrations, is doomed to go to hell beyond any germ of doubt. This debate is best left amongst the concerned parties in favour of a journey to Addisu Gabya.

As we arrived at Addisu we saw a large tent decorated with the Ethiopian tricolour set to camp the Tabots of St. Raphael, St. Michael (Yechakaw Michael) and Egzarab. Villagers accompanying their nearest Tabot flocked from all directions at crowded the site. Women clad in their national costumes clapping hands and ululating louder than ever turned the area into a frenzy of festivity and colourful celebrations.

The elaborate ecclesiastical garments of the priests and deacons kept cameramen and tourists alike in exoticism. The local singers playing their string instruments were pushed aside into the periphery of benchwarmers as they could not steal the limelight any more than the laity. There were some kebele officials standing by the Tabots and looking subdued as is the case of most Ethiopian public personnel who think they are bodies to be respected and honoured for being public officials. There was of course security staff under the new name of "demb askebari" equipped with batons only.

The recently opened NOC filling station, which was built amidst a strong controversy over title deed between City Hall officials and the pious community, imposes itself from a prominent place near the tent. A six-storey building is under construction behind the station.

The Semien market proper, minus the sheep stall, lies to the west of the building. Lines of little boutiques and wide red-painted metallic houses constitute the main stores of the market. Hundreds of shops and trading sheds are stocked with Chinese footware and garments, hand-woven shemmas and plastic crockery. All the hustle and bustle freezes to a standstill whenever a religious celebration takes place at the Gabya.

The next day I joined my friends to see off the Holy Saviour Tabot coming from Jan Meda up to Yekatit 12th Secondary School. We then went to a party where we sliced raw meat like cabagges and downed tej(honey wine) like water!

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