allAfrica.com: Botswana: Book Review : For the People of the Forest (Page 1 of 1)

Catja Orford a.k.a 'Danger Girl' (2007). "Tracking BuBu: Or How Threats of Disinheritance Caused Me to Set Off for the Jungle in Search of Happiness, Gorillas and Perhaps a Husband". Auckland Park, South Africa, Jacana, 163 pages, multiple graphics, illustrations and photographs (no index). Paperback. P195, ISBN 978-1-77009-238-9. Available at Exclusive Books, Riverwalk.

'Tracking BuBu' is Catja Orford's highly personal and delightful multimedia presentation recorded on the pages of a book on her 15 months in Gabon at the Lope National Park based at the Mikongo Conservation Camp in 2003 and early 3004. 'BuBu' means gorilla in the BaKa tongue of the central African pygmies. The hilarious thing about BuBu in Gabon is that he or she does not appreciate being tracked. BuBu will do his utmost to make sure he is never found, let alone seen. Conservationists and animal behaviour scientists who track primates in tropical rainforests find that sightings and observation points are so rare. Hence most of the tracking becomes internal as the time searching ends up being turned within to leads and discoveries of the self. Catja Orford is no exception to this rule.

In 2004, Orford, then 26-years old, in response to a challenge from her father, decided to write-up her time in the rainforest. The result is a most unusual volume. Is it autobiography, travelogue, environmental monologue, a collection of letters (sent by e-mail) or a memoir? Or do you have enough books on 'tracking' that you can put 'BuBu' together with them?

One thing for sure. It is a world apart from Botswana, where Catja Orford grew up. It is a different tale from the two most popular primatologists: Jane Goodall in Tanzania and 'Gorilla's in the Mist' inspired by Dian Fossey in Rwanda. Both made long-terms observations. First, the terrain is very different and the time allowed for observations vastly reduced. Then their dedication, sense of being committed pioneers opening up a new world was unique. Fossey died because of her zealousness. Goodall carries on. Both have been severely criticised for 'luring' primates to be able to have time with them; then for actually interacting with them. These are not allegations that can be levelled against Orford, but one wonders if she and her team of scientists were not tempted, as the greats had set an example. While studying primates in the wild, is it fair to become friends and influence their behaviour? Are they then still 'wild'?

This volume is composed of an amazing variety of illustrations and calligraphy employing a style common in commercial advertising in the 1890s. Over 100 years ago, artwork was characterised by the use of an extraordinary variety of 'stamps' to make the patterns, lettering and even a terrific range of pictures. Anybody who has never seen this approach before, welcome to BuBu. This also helps to make this volume readable in little chunks, and visually varied. Too bad a corner was not reserved in the top right of each page so that there could have been a visual amusement, as when flipped an illustrated moving picture appears before one's eyes composed of 80 presentations on Catja's time in Gabon. The pictures would race magically past one's eyes. Perhaps this can be done in the next edition? Such presentations were common in 'Big-Little Books' 80-years ago or so.

Fortunately the gorilla is not the only thing to look for in the forest. There are a variety of other primates, including the delightful black colobus, mandrills, moustached monkeys, the sun-tailed money, chimpanzees, baboons and their common enemy panther pardus. There are also an amazing variety of reptiles including that creature known as a 'Gabon viper' - not one you want to tread on. On the ground there are pangolin, duiker, red-river hogs, okapi, forest elephants, wart hogs, and in the streams and rivers Nile crocodiles.

On treks, tracking gorillas, when one was not promoted to a member of the 'Mikongo Survivors Team' and had to out-run elephants, one could also spend time learning BaKa. On such outings, they were constantly aware that to be rewarded by the forest, they knew that the most likely thing they might be able to bring back from a jungle-viewing expedition was a 'Gorilla Turd'.

"These gorilla nests are very fresh. Let's count all of them and then we'll count all the shit." How do you use this reality to promote tourism? Orford notes a potential scenario. "Your unnatural movement in front of the camera could result in a Sigourney Weaver type contract entitled 'The Gorilla is a Myth'".

There were good days recorded in her journal and in the e-mails to friends and family. One entitled 'the quiet suffering in the forest' comments that: "Walking in the forest has been very demanding for both the brain and legs, as if a ball and chain had been fastened to the ankle". This message concludes that: "Things are changing. I saw five gorilla yesterday and I even made a young solitaire scream" - (page 122).

A lot of what Catja writes about in this unusual volume (it actually is not even paginated-now show me another book without page numbers?) focuses on her friends, boss (Alfred Bloom-a very cheerful Dutchman with a great moustache), her fellow workmates, and the BaKa trackers who tried to help them. Then there are the tales gleaned and regurgitated for our benefit. And as always, the weather to write home about.

Not far away in the Congo, at another site for primate research at Lomoko, scientists for years have been studying the bonobos, the 'hippie chimps'. They too, in similar terrain, are most elusive. The bonobos enjoy their privacy and do not want humans observing them, watching their every action, including the fantastic sex life that they are famous for. Most of what has been written about bonobos is based on observations in zoos. Once in captivity, are they really the same creatures? A recent report by Ian Parker reviewing years of research appeared in The New Yorker (30 July 2007) and is quite fascinating. It helps to place in context the experiences that Orford had across the river in Gabon.

There is wide literature on tracking worldwide. It is a perceived truth that non-Western people, those considered to be closer to nature, are more expert trackers. They are even granted mystical qualities. But it may be more of a dynamic based on context, early life experiences, and traditional knowledge that is passed down within families.

Whether 'Tracking BuBu' will actual join this genre I am not sure. One of the classics in this field is the old book 'Tracker' (1978). It is the story of Tom Brown Junior that begins in the Pine Barrens of New Jersey, USA, and describes the lessons learned from a Native American, Stalking Wolf. Today he runs a tracking school there. Tom Brown has his detractors, those that assert that his 'legendary abilities are fiction' and that Stalking Wolf is a figment of his imagination. Still, many have benefited from his school. Orford's tracking school was in the 'jungle' and through experience.

'Tracking BuBu' was launched last month by Catja Orford and Jacana at the 'The No 1 Ladies' Opera House' at Kgale Siding. It was a very warm reception

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