Nicholas Rainer
25 April 2008
Port Louis — The food crisis is spreading like wildfire. Every day brings fresh reports of food riots in the world's poor countries. Yesterday, Brazil joined the growing club of countries, which have halted rice exports to ensure their domestic supply. The five-time World Cup winner's draconian decision will deprive neighbouring countries of half a million tons of the precious staple.
Even the US has begun to feel the pinch as big retailers announced they would start rationing rice sales. A killer wheat fungus is threatening to destroy much of South East Asia's wheat fields on which millions depend for survival. What chance does a Small Island Developing State (SIDS) like Mauritius have of weathering what the UN has aptly described as the "perfect storm"? Surprisingly, it turns out that the country isn't obliged to act like a deer caught in the headlights of food scarcity. However, we'll probably have to alter that most cherished aspect of Mauritian life: the food we eat.
Over the years, I have asked scores of expatriates what they missed the most about their countries and two answers unfailingly emerge: family and food. Aromas and tastes have the power to instantly conjure up childhood memories. Mealtimes provide sacred moments for human interaction. Mauritius is more gifted than most when it comes to culinary ingenuity. The intermingling of African, Asian and European techniques and ingredients produces a mouth-watering alchemy that seduces even the most blasé of taste buds. Along comes the food crisis to spoil the banquet.
Eric Mangar of the "Mouvement pour l'autosuffisance alimentaire" is full of sensible ideas when it comes to dealing with the conundrum. "L'express" reported yesterday on the difficulties of the poultry industry because of the spiraling price of chicken feed. Eric Mangar believes we will have to turn increasingly to fish for our protein supply. And the country's SIDS status is a blessing rather than a curse. Mauritius possesses an exclusive economic zone of almost 2 million km - 53 000 km - of which are fishing grounds.
The seafood hub is more than fulfilling its potential but the bulk of its production is exported. The success of the fish gambit hinges on the ability of decision-makers to nurture a bona fide local fishing industry. This should create the economies of scale necessary to making fish affordable for the average Mauritian. Potatoes could help offset the inaccessibility of rice and flour. Research on its cultivation has been completed.
There must now be a clear policy on how much land should be reserved for agriculture. The recent "savage development" coupled with the proliferation of IRS and the like mean that the amount of arable land is dwindling daily. It's no use selling off land to wealthy foreigners if it deprives the country of a shot at securing its food supplies. Mauritians should look at ways to produce their own food. They can plant their vegetables in gardens and on rooftops and rear poultry. FAO director, Jacques Diouf, blamed the current crisis on "inappropriate policies over the past 20 years". But he also said: "The situation is not Greek tragedy where fate is decided by the gods and humans can do nothing about it.
No, we have the ability to influence our future." He is right. Mauritian cuisine's evolution into a gorgeous cornucopia of colours, aromas and tastes is largely due to the nation's ability to harmoniously blend available ingredients. The food crisis is an opportunity to further cultivate that ingenuity and cook up the perfect storm.
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