Joseph Gichuki
18 June 2008
column
Nairobi — It is expected that the popular saying "East or West, home is the best" should hold true to the Maasai workers in urban centres like it does to workers from other communities.
Indeed, pioneer Maasai workers in urban centres had their hearts in the village.
But Maasai elders say that some morans, who come to work in towns, are being entangled in a wide web of the city life of cheap sex and alcohol, abandoning their wives, children and the elderly in the manyatta to poverty and hunger.
On bottom
In a kangaroo court convened twice a week at Nairobi's Kamukunji grounds, the 'guilty' are sentenced to be whipped 75 times on the bottom and "deported" to their village, via a VCT centre.
As one approaches the Kamukunji grounds, one notices a group of elderly Maasai men sitting on the grass, clad in red checked shuka, earings and bracelets, with clubs to match.
The elders are not conferring their blessings by spitting showers of honey brew on young initiates.
They are angry and often spit saliva laden with snuff as they castigate some of their sons, who have become entangled in the liberal city life.
The scenario has become a source of soul-searching moment for many residents in Eastlands, who however dare not question the elders.
Mr Wamae Kagondu, who lives in nearby Majengo slums, said: "I thank God that the elders do not investigate everybody on the last time he/she went to visit their families in the village. I know of some from my community who cannot trace the directions to their families in the village. They are just lost for ever."
It is common to see morans frog-marched to the grounds before a council of elders.
Moses ole Matiai was brought to the grounds well guarded by six morans. They said they had fished Moses from Machakos Town, where he used to live with a mistress.
It had been a long search from when the council of elders released a warrant of arrest for the "dissident".
The charges were read to him: "Moses ole Matiani. You were born and brought up in Bisli village in Kajiado District. You are married with three children, who are all going to school. You left Bisli and went to Machakos where you got a job as a night guard.
"We understand that you have now got a mistress who you do give all your salary. You have abandoned the village family. You have also forgotten that you had a culture to preserve. You have thrown away the shukas and started wearing woman attire, the trousers. And you have now taken to heavy drinking of muratina, chang'aa and busaa."
The moran prosecutor turns another leaf, to read the verdict.
"It is seven years since you left the village. We know that you are not a stranger to the rules and regulations of the council of elders.
"You will be given 75 whips of nyahunyo (whip made from an old tyre). The council of elders will do a light shopping that you will take to your family. And since we don't know of your health status, you will be given two guards to take you for check-up at the nearest VCT centre to arrest the spread of the Aids virus to your innocent family."
Wooden cane
The most notorious morans are said to be whipped by a special wooden cane made from ositeti, a tree species found in Maasailand.
Due to their nature of nomadism, the Maasai are said to have overgrown their confinement in the plains and some are hence trying to create some room.
The men often give reasons like going out to look for greener pastures and water for their animals - that constitute their main source of livelihood.
But many of the morans are said to be lured to the city by tales from their peers.
Once in the city, the warriors get involved in the urban ways.
According to elder Simon ole Morinjui, moranism in the plains is slowly diminishing as young Maasai troupe to towns.
The young warriors, wearing red shuka and the elaborate ochre-smeared braids, are now a familiar sight on the streets of Nairobi, either crossing the roads in a group holding each other's hands, or just idling in a street corner.
The proud warriors from the plains of Saikeri, that fascinate tourists with their height, making them darlings of European women, have nowhere else to turn to but "the sin city" the rare dollar earned by entertaining tourists.
Traditionally, the men could spend months away from home in search of pasture for their cattle, especially when the rains fail in the dry savanna.
Age set
A woman was therefore allowed to have sex with any of her husband's age set. Today, the arrangement has been thrown into disarray due to Aids.
According to tradition, the moran is charged with the duty of guarding the enkang- the kraal, protecting the family and the community, especially against cattle rustlers.
Simon asks silently: "Who will warm the enkang? -if all the morans refuse to go home?
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