Jemi Ekunkunbor
22 June 2008
interview
Lagos — Although his passion has always been for the arts, Wale Omagbemi Amoda was strictly advised by his folks that he would be a starving artist if he followed his passion.
Fearing that he might be a failure, the psychology graduate decided to practice what he had studied at the university. For three years, he worked for the New York State Government but everything seemed like a chore. Many years after, the father of two decided to follow his heart and his passion for fashion designing. Through hard work and dedication to duty, he has risen to the position of senior designer with the popular label, Liz Claiborne.
Quiet and soft spoken, Wale was home recently, after many years, as he makes plans to come home to set up something in his fatherland. I began by asking him how it all started.
At what time did it occur to you to follow your passion?
Well, I had been working as a psychologist for a while and it didn't seem like something that I wanted to do. At that time, I had started to put designs on T-shirt. So, I asked my employer to fire me because if he fired me, then I could receive unemployment insurance from the government, which would supplement me while I went to launch my own business. But, I was a designer not a sales person. Even though the designs were good and I even got them into a couple of stores, I wasn't a good enough sales person to take it to the next level. So, I ran out of money - at which point I had to decide what I wanted to do.
I didn't have a job. I didn't have a place to stay. So, I went to stay with my father, who was coming back to Nigeria, for two years. I was paid to come back to Nigeria; maybe I would end up in the oil or energy field. At the last second, a friend of mine who was working in the art department in an internet company asked me to come; that he would get me a job setting up computers. I took that internet job from where I made a lot of connection. One of the contacts I made was this head designer for Russell Simmons. Later, when the internet company folded up, I was faced with deciding what I was going to do next.
So, I listed out five different things that I have passion for. Before that time, I had started my own small sports wear line; even when I didn't know anything about fashion. At this point, I decided to follow up on that contact and the guy asked me if I could start on Monday. I said, "Sure". That was how I got into fashion, more as an apprentice. I worked very long hours for very little pay. He was the brain and I was the muscle. That went on for a very long time and, at a time when I just became a new husband and new father. I couldn't sustain myself with the little money I was making. So, I let him know and he eventually got me interviewed for the position of a designer for boys' wear.
One thing I learnt from the internet business is to act like you know and learn on-the-job. I went there and acted like I know and they hired me for double what I was earning at the internet company but my hours ended up being double too. I would go at 8 a.m. and leave at 2-3 a.m. everyday because, I was learning on the job. I had to make sure that I delivered. That job lasted for a year before I went on to my next job. I've been doing fashion now since 2002.
What would your comment be on this issue of people around one not letting you follow your passion, especially when it has to do with the arts?
Even though I liked psychology, at the time, it was a secondary passion and it always felt like a chore. When I started to do what I liked, even though I was putting in longer hours, I was happier to be doing what I had a connection with. And as far as passion is concerned, I would say that people should always pursue what they have passion for because, it is only one life that they have and they should live that life to the fullest.
So, now I hear you are with Liz Claiborne?
Now I've worked my way up to the level of a senior designer of Enyce. I have a staff of three working with the vice president of designs and another senior designer to determine what direction an up coming line is going to go, what the theme would be, what trend we've seen in the past that we would project and implement into our up coming line. There is a lot of business in it than creative. You have to look at what you are best in and look for a way to create along those lines which is young men's fashion.
What was your immediate challenge, coming from your psychology and computer background?
The immediate challenge was learning how to design a collection. It's not easy. A collection for mass market is much different from a collection for the runway. For mass market, they are not so concerned with extreme creativity. They are concerned with wearability and sales. The mentality is not to be the first to be in the market with any idea. It is to be, at least, second because, you don't want to put yourself so far out there - that the mass market doesn't understand where you are coming from and the retail is left with a lot of stock. So, that kind of mentality of not being the most creative but you take your creativity and make what already exists new again was the biggest shock for me. As a new designer, this was something I had to learn.
How Nigerian are you and how much of your Nigerian influence do you bring into your creativity?
I can't say that I've had the opportunity to do so yet. Using my Nigerian roots is going to be something that I'ld have the opportunity to do once I get my project in Nigeria off-the-ground.
One of the reasons why I took this trip home is because, now that I'm at this level of business experience, in the US, I've already started to look forward to entrepreneurial ideas and opportunities. So, it came to me - why not take that same mind-set back to Nigeria? My idea is to bridge Nigerian influence in fashion with that of American or UK fashion, perfect it and also use my knowledge of the market and the trend over there in the US.
So you do want to set up here?
Yes. That is why I came; to do market research because I'm looking at starting my own line in the States. But the US is an extremely saturated market. I feel I can still do it but in a flash of inspiration, I just said why not just go home to a market that is not as over-run with people starting lines and there will be more opportunity as, what I am bringing will be fresher and newer.
Since you've been around, what have your findings been?
That it is possible and that things like this are already trying to bubble and surface. So, I believe that bringing my unique perspective and background and experience in fashion will be very well received.
Have you considered what production is like here?
All that is to be worked out so that I can get the business started as quickly as possible with quality being the goal of the product; so that we can ultimately have a company where we can go from creation to production, to sales.
Why is it so difficult breaking into a market that you know?
In the US, in the last 5-10 years, the fashion industry has become like the oil boom where everybody wanted to run into. When Puff Daddy, Jay Z and Russell Simons (with Russell Simmons, who is like the god-father of urban wears) came into fashion, it became like a second step after rapping - to come out with clothing lines and sign deals and contracts. Now, every little artiste wants to put a graphic on his T-shirt to say he is the lifestyle brand. You can't have a lifestyle brand in five T-shirts. What kind of lifestyle is that?
But it poses a challenge, doesn't it?
Yes it does. It poses a challenge of a small fish being seen in a very big pan.
Fashion, like everything else, is moving to the next level. What happened with fashion?
My take on it is that music and cinema has a lot to do with it. Music, in particular, pushes the rags to riches overnight story. It pushes the story of I'm in a hood; I'm a gangster this minute and look, I hustled and ground and now, I'm in a club and opening a $500 bottle champagne on a regular basis; living with all the women and diamonds dripping from me.
This message is being pushed to the rap music. And, that is pre-dominantly what our African-American youths listen to. That is what they identify with. They see people who look like them doing something and they listen to the message and you get a sense of luxury which is the end result. They see the luxurious finished line and so everyone is tapping into that and it's in our spirit and why wouldn't we want to let God's light shine? I really see it as influence of music and music videos and movies; rag to riches story.
Is it good for us?
I don't think it's good at all. It leaves out the necessary work that even these artistes go through. If you look at 50 Cent, oh people just see he was shot and now he has 12 billion dollars but it doesn't tell how he goes to live in the studio day in, day out. Even me, I have young designers who are kind of resentful of my position. They don't see me putting in 100 hours in a week, doing the tedious side of the design process for over a year. So, the message that is being sent out I think, is destructive. It's not a helpful one. It's a distraction and misleading.
But you are selling as a designer?
Well, people have to wear clothes, anyway, but my message isn't tied to the message of the music.
What message would you want your clothes to send out?
When you get to where I am at, it's a fine line that you walk. You don't design what no one has seen. You have to work with sales. You have a lot of cooks in the kitchen that want their ingredients added into the final product. You have to work with sales and marketing and sales is not concerned with creativity. They are concerned with what their best-seller was.
How do you feel when decisions interfere with creativity?
I have to fight for it but you have to learn how to pick your battles. Not all battles can be fought or else, they will say this person is a trouble maker, get rid of him. There is a lot of diplomacy that you have to learn as you get to the higher level of design. That is the market. If I were on the runway, it's a different battle. Again, it's a lot of small fish trying to fight for a little spotlight and whatever that spotlight is, you can be a diva or whatever male version of diva is.
Have you made a blunder with your work before?
There will always be cases of misfiring when you are shooting so many arrows. The VP of designs that I'm working with, I've seen (some of) his designs over the years, that are terrible but you learn from your mistakes. There are times that I wish I could take back my designs.
What has it been like since you've been home?
Its been interesting. I just came for a short period of time. I haven't really had time to do visiting. It's really just been market research. I've gone to three malls, which weren't here since the last time I came home. I'm looking at how the retail environment is changing, bringing on westernised business model of malls with cinema; which you would find in New Jerssey and so on. It is promising.
What message would you like to give?
Just to say that no matter what field a person is in, he should follow his passion before he ends up like me, ten years down the line - getting back to where he started from. You should look for a friendly person in your circle that can encourage you.
As an individual what do you like to wear?
There is a guy, John Varvatos. I like his stuff a lot. He has a lot of mix of street wear and more tailored fashion. I still like Ralph Laurent but I like to pick and choose and mix from different lines. I'm not a slave to any label, even my own. A mark of a good designer is being able to design for someone other than themselves. So right now, I like to mix and match. It could be high or low fashion, as long as the outcome looks good. That's what I go with.
What's in? What's hot?
I can't tell you what label but what is hot is uniqueness! Being able to interpret what is already out like, mixing your father's suit pant with your new Nike shoes. Since I've been going around in Lagos, I've been noticing the labels in the clothes and talking to people. It's like what's hot is slim fit. The US is just coming to slim fit. So, Nigerians are ahead. They are very aware of fashion and wherever they go, they notice who the best-looking person in the room is and see what he is doing and blend it with their own style. In the US, the slim fit look is just coming in.
Won't you find that tasking, when you come, because Nigerians like individual attention?
I think my business model will be tailored to those who will be willing to pay for exclusivity. Because, it's not easy to just create. I'm not going to be in the business of killing myself to put one little design for you and you are looking great and I'm going home with a lean pocket. From high to low cost, the taste for exclusivity is there and as a designer, it's up to you to decide who you are going to cater for. It's the same mentality that people who will line up two days before have because they realise a store is going to have only 100 of an item. So, they stay out day and night for two days to have that thing. It's the exclusivity mentality- it is everywhere.
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