This Day (Lagos)

Nigeria: Osun Osogbo - Honouring the River Goddess

Kunle Ogunfuyi

6 September 2008


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Lagos — Many centuries ago, hunters from a nearby village Ipole Omu, named Larooye, Olutimehin and their subjects migrated in search of water.

They finally settled at a place very near the Osun River in present day Osogbo. Later, Larooye became the first Ataoja (King) of Osogbo, as one of the initial builders of the settlement. These men and their subjects knew nothing about the administration of the goddess of the Osun River. As time passed by, members of the established community were engaged in preparation of ground for a planting season when a tree fell into the river and a mysterious voice was heard from the Osun River saying: "Larooye, Olutimehin " (Gbogbo Ikoko Aro mi leti fo tan)-you have destroyed all my dyeing pots. Having heard this mysterious voice, they were afraid for they never knew how the goddess of the river knew their names. When Oba Larooye and other lesser spirits within the community pacified the goddess of the river by saying Oso-Igbo pele o, Oso igbo rora, the ancient city was said to have derived her name from the mysterious voice from the lesser spirit made to pacify the goddess of Osun River, thus Oso-Igbo pele o; Oso-igbo rora, was abbreviated to Osogbo. Same goes for the royal title, Ataoja which was derived from the function which the goddess of Osun River advised the first Oba to perform during the last day of the then festival; Atewogbeja which is abbreviated to Ataoja.

She then advised Oba Larooye, Olutimehin and their subjects to move to the upper part of the river called Ohuntoto, for human beings could not live with the spirits. Immediately, Oba Larooye, Olutimehin and their subjects obeyed the command of the goddess of Osun River and moved to Ohuntoto, leaving behind his first palace now called Osun Temple inside the sacred grove.

As time went on, Olutimehin engaged in hunting expedition and saw some spirits within the Osun Grove dancing round a sixteen-point lamp. He seized the lamp through incantation. When Osun goddess heard about the seizure of lamp, she invited Larooye and Olutimehin and told them that the seizure of the lamp never worried her, but advised that the lamp be celebrated alongside ode Osogbo.

The pact between the Osun goddess and Oba Larooye that Osogbo would always be protected and blessed if the people continue to worship her. She was applauded with many important achievements by the people, which helped to establish the State. She possessed magical powers, which motivated her people and frightened their enemies. Osogbo tradition acclaims her as the goddess of fertility, protection and blessings. She also possessed the ability to give children (through birth) to barren women, healing of the sick and the afflicted by means of her medicinal water from the river. This gave birth to the annual Osun Osogbo festival which served as the birthday of Osogbo and the Remembrance Day of the Ataoja's ancestors; During this period, sons and daughters of Osogbo, near and far, come home, where series of meetings are held about the development of Osogbo. Glitz Destination gives account of this year's edition of the festival.

Prior to the trip, I had spent days walking in and out of a motor mechanic's workshop just to fix my jalopy for convenience on the trip. All efforts made were futile. So as not to let pass the Osun Osogbo festival; I finally caved into fate and went in public transportation. At the park, all buses to Osogbo had increased fares by twenty percent to cash in on the rush. Finally, we took approximately three and half hours to cover the expected 284kilometers (Spectrum Road Map) from Lagos to Osogbo, Osun state capital due to the state of the roads.

In fact, there was an atmosphere of jamboree everywhere as we entered Osogbo with lots of commercial activities and even motorbikes found it difficult making head way. Glitz advises first time visitors that the Ataoja's palace should be your first stop. There you get all necessary information to prevent delays.

At the palace, one was briefed that the festival had long commenced with activities such as the Ataoja's youth football challenge, 2nd Osun festival , Olagunsoye Oyinlola Golf Competition, Masquerade day, Cultural film show, Black cultural night, traditional wrestling, Ayo game competition, Now an HIV-AID promotional campaign, Fashion Parade, Art Exhibition, 'Iwopopo' traditional clearing of the city. Then, Ijuba fun awan Oba to ti waja - the sacrifice to the past Ataojas will proceed Atupa Olojumberindinlogun' - lighting of the sixteen lamps believed to have been seized from the Osanyin by the co-founder of Osogbo. Ibori and Iboade and Ijo-ayaba Isale-sacrifice for the head and crown and sacrifice for the deceased wives of the past Obas and so on for some weeks back.

The worshipping of Osun goddess at the Osun Shrine which climaxes the end of the festival went on right before us. Unexpectedly, a female Osun priestess came out from a house inside the palace yard, holding a knife, speaking in silence and went back. Her next appearance was with 'Arugba' (the virgin girl) carrying a partly covered decorated calabash, surrounded by priests and a large crowd of people in and outside the palace; later, Ataoja accompanied by kinsmen hosted the visitors from near and far to the Osun shrine.

While in transit, we moved slowly due to the massive crowd of people that danced and generally occupied themselves with merriment under colourful canopies. It was an opportunity for traders to make quick money as there was a high demand for goods and services such as the selling of 'Akara Elepo'- beans cake, 'Adire/ Kampala'-well designed local fabrics, souvenirs, farm produce, street games, Bata, Dundun, Aro, Sekere - drums and the white plastic containers which are sold in large quantities and used to collect water at the Osun river.

In recent times, the Osun Goddess is believed to have established her kingdom across the globe and this is why UNESCO has listed Osun Grove as a World Heritage Site. .

The festival's grand finale is associated with offering of sacrifices , in the form of money, goods, kola nuts and birds, as well as vows to the river goddess by worshippers at the river bank. While other various traditional groups and professionals, like Traditional chiefs, Royal families, traditional devotees/ herbalists, Oodua People's Congress, Market women forum, cane men, cultural troupes (Nike Centre for Art & Culture/ Eyo from Lagos state) including sponsors all pay homage to the Ataoja.

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