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Nigeria: South African Judges Speak on Country Models

Remi Diagbare

9 November 2008

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interview

Not a few Nigerians have expressed delight at the rising profile of Nigerian models on the catwalk. Bearing in mind that class performance at bigger fashion shows is where the real challenge is, we sought the views of some South African industry leaders on their assessment of the models that participated in the recently concluded Nigeria's Next Super Model contest. See what we came out with.

I am Deon Redman, Creative Director, African Fashion International, organisers of the South African Fashion Weeks. I also work on fashion shows for specific designers in New York and in London, Milan and Paris.

Why are you in Nigeria?

I came here for the Nigeria's Next Super Model (contest).Tell me what you think about the show; the quality of the girls, the outfit and all.I thought the show was great. What I am really happy to see is how the people have supported the girls; that was really great. I must say that the girls from Nigeria have carved quite a niche in the market on catwalk anywhere in the world, beginning with Oluchi. It's time the whole attitude in the industry is changed now towards black models.

What was it about the first three girls that excites you?

I'll start with number three. I can't pronounce her name so forgive me. I told Joan that and she said we can call her Ayo. So, Ayo has such a unique look about her. She almost looks dull like she's almost like an Africa version of Kate Moss.

I've never seen anyone look quite like her. She's got a great presence on the catwalk - beautiful neck, beautiful body; she would really be able to hold her own and I can see people reacting to her work. She's what we call, in the industry, more of an editorial girl. An editorial girl is generally a runway girl. She's the kind of girl who shoots magazine fashion shoots.

The second girl, Macia, (is a) beautiful girl. Great body, tall, great proportion. The good thing about Macia is that she can transfer across a lot of different markets; she can look great on the catwalk. She can look great in a magazine shoot and in TV commercials.

Then, the first girl, Cynthia. Cynthia has something very special about her. I can't place my finger on it, but it's the kind of thing you react to. And it really came to light at the show. She's got a very unique look about her; a look that will capture people. Because really, this is an industry where you are working with creative people, respond to inspiring and interesting things. I believe that of all the girls here tonight, she has the most potential to be able to do that.

Is there market for black girls international - in South Africa, the US and London?

There are different outlooks when it comes to that. In terms of markets, South Africa is a very strong market for black girls because, they shoot a lot of commercials for the rest of Africa. Also, we have five fashion weeks happening in South Africa, every season. So, it's a great market for girls to get started. It's also a great market for girls to work incessantly.

Europe has a more specific kind of look, in terms of black girls. They want a girl who's incredibly unique; there has been a lot of discussion, recently, about the amount of black girls that we see at international shows. The belief is that black girls are not as well represented as they could be, which I think is right. But that is changing. There was a recent cover in June (edition of) Vogue; and they shot the whole black Vogue issue. They had Naomi Campbell, Liya Kidebe and Jodin. That was the first time in history that Vogue has ever devoted an entire issue to black models.

And I think that it's time. Africa is a strong contributor and it's time that is reflected in European magazine. The market in America is a little different because, it's commercially based. So, you find the girls who do really well - Tyra Banks, for example, who is more of a commercial product; and I use the word product because that is exactly what a model is.

The job of a model is to sell a product at the end of the day. So, people are looking for a person of their brand to push sales. And that's what I think. We really have a very good representation now. The three girls that we pushed forward cover the different sequence of the market and each one of those girls could progress. So, it's an exciting stage of their career to be able to go into a major market like South Africa and then see where that development takes them.

So, do you think the three girls have a good chance abroad?

I think so, I said to Joan before I came on this trip; I've been completely honest with her. Of the lot, there was only one girl that I thought no potentials.

But those three girls have great potentials. We will now go to the process to presenting them to designers in South Africa; to see the designers that respond to them. We have Thula Sindi and he is one of the designers that show in South Africa. He has responded very favourably to the three of them.

In fact, he was most impressed with Cynthia as well. And I said to him, should there be the possibility that he was in South Africa when the shows came up, would you use her and he said "Absolutely". He would open his show with her. That says a lot.

Does it mean that for a girl to make it internationally, she does not have to possess the regular African looks?

I don't know what the definition is. Africans perceive beauty in one way, whereas in modelling Europe might perceive beauty in a completely different way. I remember when Alek was coming up really strong about 12 years ago.

The response from Africa was not favourable, because it was almost like an insult that Alek represented African beauty. Alek was never successful because, people in Europe thought she represented African beauty. She was successful because they thought that she was individually beautiful. I have worked with Alek a few times and she is amazing. When Alek walks into a room, you cannot help but notice her.

Is she a beautiful woman?

I think she is a beautiful woman. Alek Wek has been one of those women that have changed the idea of beauty. It's the same way that Kate Moss did; Alek Wek did as well. There is a famous quote that says: the beautiful is beautiful, the ugly might be beautiful, the pretty will never be beautiful. What that says to me is that I am not saying that Alek was ugly. I am saying that the concept of beauty changes so much and it's about what inspires people at that particular time.

Alek was very powerful and was inspiration to most of the world's top photographers at that time. I think someone like Cynthia, for example, has something that could inspire that. She is by no means an Alek. She's got a unique look about her that makes how stand out.

I can tell you that looking at Cynthia a lot of people wouldn't pick her out as a beautiful African girl.

You wouldn't? I don't understand why you say that. Yes, that's why I want to find out what is it about her that makes her beautiful?

She's got a beautiful feature that is symmetrical, she's African.

Is it the typical African structure?

No. I don't want to say what the African structure is. I am always amazed by how different people look. You respond to the energy of a model, Cynthia's look is incredibly strong and would be perceived as beautiful in lots of other places.

Tell me what you do.

I am a fashion producer. I produce specific shows for designers in Europe and America. I am the creative director in South Africa so, it's my job to oversee all the shows - casting with producers, the girls, everything you see in the fashion week, I oversee. So, I am really excited to be able to take these three girls and show them to the producers in South Africa. The three girls are specifically in next season's fashion week.

Do you have any comment on the Nigerian fashion and beauty industry?

I saw the last day of the Nigeria fashion week. I think the Nigerian industry has great potentials. The thing with any emerging industry is that you need money. Fashion is incredibly powerful, economically, in the world. It accounts for 400 billion dollars on an annual basis. Nigeria, as a market and as an industry, is developing and emerging.

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