Rakiya A. Muhammad
17 November 2008
column
Sokoto — Sokoto State is widely known for its indigenous embroidery works attracting high patronage from far and near. It is one of the trades handed down from generation to generation and many of those into the trade are said to belong to families of embroidery makers.
Despite the coming of machine-made embroidery, this handicraft has continued to attract considerable patronage especially among the elites. Over the years, Sokoto embroidery has become a multimillion naira trade.
Rather than displaced by machine- made alternatives, local embroidery has endured and is enjoying economic success as skilled craftsmen turn out beautiful patterns to the delight of their clients.
The Sokoto indigenous designers make variety of embroideries on both males and females clothing. It provides sustainable means of income for them. Though some have taken to machine because they see it as faster, those in the trade say that is what they have known all their lives and enjoy it a great deal. What is required in this trade is the skill, a needle and thread.
Muhammed Rabiu is one of those involved in this business. Mohammed is one of many others at the Gobirawa area of Sokoto state capital who are into the trade. Muhammad, who has spent over 20 years in the industry, says sometimes, they create the design to be embroidered on materials brought to them and that in some other cases, the customer chooses the pattern.
To him, the business has been doing well, providing them the means to fend for their families. "Some of us have even build houses with it," he added.
He noted that the patronage is higher compared to some 10 years back. "Some times we get more customers than we even expect."
Corroborating his view, Aminu Abubakar, another embroider adds that sometimes they do not accept more clothes if there are pending ones to be done.
"This thing requires patience and many customers want us to finish on time. So, sometimes we decide not to collect more until we finish the ones we have at hand or we give you a date to come back."
According to him, the smallest design can take 2-3hours, while most elaborate ones such as embroidery on front and back sides of 'Babanriga' takes a day. The least handmade embroidery cost about N600, which is on neckline and wrist of a sewn material while the highest is about N7, 000.
On the threads they use, Aminu said, "One is pure cotton and we buy it at the rate of N260 per roll, the other is cotton mixed with rubber and we get it at N100 per roll. When you bring a material, we get a matching thread to use for the embroidery except the owner insists on a particular one."
They admit that they have no problem getting the various threads used for their embroidery work because they are readily available at the Sokoto markets. They added that embroidery works are more expensive than before due to high cost of threads, just as other materials have increased in the markets. "Before the pure cotton thread was N70 but now, it is N260"
The embroiders said the major challenge they face is the customers. "Sometimes when you give a date and you don't meet it, some customers come and make trouble."
Another challenge sometimes is getting the particular colour you need. "You know, colour of materials varies and we always try to get the matching colours but sometimes the one you are looking for may not be in market at that time".
The business is very high during the festive periods, particularly during Ramadan period preparatory to the Eid-el- Fitri, which usually witness many people buying more clothing materials for their wards, children, wives, relatives and for individual use.
But how do those involved in handmade embroidery see their counterparts using machine?
According to Mohammed, people who use machine are not a threat to them; because each side has its own customers' base. "We have our own customers who prefer the handmade embroidery while they have theirs. This people have continued to come to us and we are very comfortable with the business."
It has been observed that many people still prefer local embroidery especially among male elites to the ones done by machines because they last longer and give them a spirit of nostalgia even though on the whole, the latter is faster and sometimes neater.
Daily Trust check however revealed that women prefer machine made embroidery, because they are stylish and captures fashion in vogue.
This trade, many observed could remain a strategic economic empowerment venture with the knack for meeting the changing taste of customers.
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