Elisha Mayallah
31 May 2009
Arusha — Outside the Tanzania Tourist Board office in Arusha I stood next to Mr. Willy Lyimo, the Branch Manager, waiting for the car to arrive. In jovial mood, Lyimo exuded a jovial introduction of the Tengeru Cultural Tourism Programme. In a few minutes the car arrived and slowly Mr. Amani Mshana, the driver and I pulled away through the bustling streets of Arusha town heading towards Moshi.
Mr. Lyimo, had invited me to visit the Tengeru cultural tourism programme a few days earlier. Its Director, Ms. Gladness Pallangyo was born in the area. Mr. Lyimo has been coaxing residents and tourists to visit the site and find out more on walking safaris in the lower plains of Mount Meru and the Lake Duluti, where canoeing can also be organized as well as a visit to explore the caves, animals and birds found in the band of the forest surrounding the lake.
Makonde carvings are made on site Tourists venture into details
Heading East from Arusha reminded me how much fertile vegetation there is. Kilometre after kilometre of swaying coffee and banana plantations flank the highway and service roads along the Moshi - Nairobi road. By all accounts, even as new structures have sprung up recently in the midst bringing modern amenities and services to the undulating villages on the way, the places still upholds their "green gold".
Our destination was Patandi, situated 13 kilometres out of Arusha, on the slopes of Mount Meru, deep in the banana and coffee farms. Earlier we branched at the junction of Sang'isi overlooking the first petrol station then followed the rugged road on our left.
Besides a day's tour to Mount Meru forest, which takes you through the beautiful forests aside, the programme offers a walking tour through the Tengeru market; a tour to a coffee farm nearby followed by coffee roasting; tree planting and a visit to the waterfalls; and for those who are fond of schools, a visit can be organized to a nearby primary school.
A visit to a gruesome spot where hundreds of Maasai drowned in a war with the Meru in the 19 century; households chores like stone grinding finger millet [ulezi], and preparation of stiff porridge [ugali]; hike to Malala River are part of the wealth of the Tengeru Cultural Tourism Programme.
To top these varied tours, a vintage tour to Lake Duluti, 2 kilometres to the South of Tengeru, offers more than an eye can see. Mzee Simeoni Mafunga born 91 years ago and whose house is near the lake shore since the year 1943, testified that many pilgrimage have repeatedly been made by people of different beliefs in the Lake Duluti caves, where they come to pray for various reasons and needs.
Panoramic view of Lake Duluti in Tengeru
It is believed that during the 1940's the caves were used by the Wameru to pray for rains, against diseases, bad omen and to bring luck to the community. According to Mzee Mafunga, a black sheep used to be slaughtered each time there was a prayer need. The meat was always grilled near the lake and the leftovers including small pieces of meat are thrown into the water for the 'Gods of the Lake Duluti' to feast and probably grant the wish. All this would take place when the invited members of the community are singing songs tailored to ask the 'Gods' to bring luck and grant the wish. This, according to Mzee Mafunga, pilgrimage turned out to be a yearly event, since 1943.
However, with time things have changed. The Caves now attract locals and other nationalities all in need of praying for specific needs. Christians have been sighted spending several nights and camping there nearly every month. When I sought an answer to whether there are testimonies of people who have pitched camps at the caves asking the 'Gods' to grant their wish, Mzee Mafunga was skeptical and firmly insisted that it would have been more fitting to hear from those people who come to pray as he has ceased to be part of the belief after he converted himself to Christianity.
Tengeru with its eco-tourism spots, it was clear, needed several hours' serious exploration on foot to really appreciate the charms. However, such were the demands of our itinerary, and I said to Ms. Pallangyo on departure - There has just to be next time - to explore more.
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