The Observer (Kampala)
Hussein Bogere
19 August 2009
He calls himself the king of afro-beat, but on Sunday Jose Chameleone came face to face with the real King, the man whose word is final; the man before whom all the mighty Baganda prostrate; the man to whom a back is never turned; the roaring lion; the owner of all land in Buganda; Kabaka Ronald Muwenda Mutebi II.
And such is the rich and deep culture of Buganda which came to the fore during celebrations to mark 16 years since the current king was crowned at Naggalabi.
The king, in the company of his son, Prince Crispin Jjunju, his aunt the Namasole, younger brother, Prince David Wasajja and other members of the royal family, enjoyed the entertainment on offer mainly from Mesach Ssemakula, Ronald Mayinja, Haruna Mubiru and the legendary Dan Mugula.
But it is Mugula and Christopher Ssebadukka Jr. that caught the royal eye. The latter, because of his song Eddaame lya Chwa and the former for his tune composed in 1971 detailing Buganda's mourning when the kingdom had no king. The crowd didn't disappoint, with some singing along to the tune.
When Chameleone was performing Bayuda, the Kabaka was smiling indulgently. He seemed to know a lot about Bayuda!
The king leaned forward in a pensive posture and watched as Chameleone worked the crowd.
In fact, Chameleone was the first entertainer to get a royal handshake, albeit against the wishes of the king's handlers. Chameleone's move seemed to have opened the floodgates, with musicians falling over themselves for the royal handshake.
They usually stopped at prostrating, which is accompanied by the royal drums - mujaguzo - sounded by a grey-haired man.
It is during this dramatic prostrating (men falling to the ground face downwards in a synchronised act) that the Kabaka's men - and women who stop at kneeling - vow to protect the king with their lives and must walk backwards once they are done.
They risk tripping over themselves in so doing, but that's what their culture dictates. In Buganda tradition, one must never show their back to the Kabaka, thus the backwards movement after prostration.
The best was saved for last as the Kabaka walked underneath a vast umbrella in the company of uncompromising guards also known as Abambowa clad in yellow tunics and bark cloth, and wielding shields and spears.
The Kabaka did try to reach out to some of his subjects, but the Bambowa could not have any of it. Well, it is their job; to ensure the safety of their Kabaka, but shouldn't magulu nnyondo (man with iron legs) be given a chance to shake just a few hands at least?
Interestingly, the Kabaka spent most of the time reading his Bible, occasionally pointing out a line or two to his aunt, resulting in a smirk from both royal faces.
It was probably a reminder that even if he is the king, the man whose word is not questionable, the husband to all Baganda women and men, the landlord, like Mayinja sang, there is a supreme ruler above him, God.
Away from the speeches and cunning politicians, activity thrived. None of it related to the coronation celebrations of course.
Behind the tents where the real celebrations were going on, another kind of party was in full blast.
Shrewd businessmen and women were busy selling watery light brown local brew to men and women in dirty mineral water bottles.
Other business-minded people were selling food, water, poorly roasted chicken and sausages, as well as meat.
If you looked like you could afford it, then you were sold a bottle of water at Shs 1,000. If you raised your eyebrows at this daylight robbery (hey, this isn't Kampala Serena Hotel), the seller would tell you, "Ok, you can have it at 700". Standardised prices had no space at this party.
Besides the isolated cases of mischief, there were thousands of many people whose sole purpose of being here was clearly to celebrate with their Kabaka. Their loyalty was amazing.
One such person was definitely "Grandma Dreadlocks".
Buganda's Deputy Information Minister Medard Lubega introduced her by announcing that she had not cut her hair since the reign of Sekabaka Daudi Chwa, father to Sir Edward Muteesa II. Imagine! As a result, her long grey hair rivals any Rastafarian's dreadlocks.
Apparently, she continues to grow it in protest of the wrongs performed against the kingdom. Now beat that royal loyalty!
Then there was this old lady that beat security and went straight to the Kabaka to hold a conversation with him. After that, she tried to showcase her dancing skills but her stiff bones could not let her shake it.
She twisted this way and that way, but the outcome could not really be described as dancing!
Another group of outstanding loyalists was a choir from the Buvuma Islands that sang for the Kabaka. They just could not harmonise their voices for us to get good sound effect. But they left the stage satisfied because their Kabaka was smiling nevertheless.
This story cannot end without talking about politicians. Despite their political differences, many of them were here, desperately trying to demonstrate their allegiance to the Kabaka. They surely know the political rewards that come with such association.
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