An hour's drive from the capital Kampala via Gayaza road leads you to Naggalama in Mukono district. The stuffy air of the city is no more and if there is any noise pollution, it comes from the wheezing of the air against plants and the chirping of birds.
This is Ewaffe Village, a stunning natural enclave you could call a paradise of Ugandan culture.
To many, Ewaffe Village's existence and the cultural abundance oozing from it still something hidden in books but to those who have been here, it is worthy of its name.
In Luganda, Ewaffe is literally translated into "our home."
After traveling for approximately 38 kilometres northeast of Kampala, our Saturday morning sense of adventure led us to this unusual setting just before Naggalama town, off the Gayaza-Kayunga Road.
We are greeted by an electrifying atmosphere as a troupe of young girls and women twist their waists in all directions. If it isn't their gyration, or the beats they are dancing to that get to you, their big smiles surely will.
"Tusanyuse okubalaba abagenyi baffe. Mwebale kujja (we are happy to receive you, our dear visitors)," the performers greet, punctuating the warmth with ululation.
You walk away from the troupe onto gourds of a cold banana juice drink to quench the thirst.
Nature's basket.
Doctors recommend that you have your daily servings of fruits for health purposes and that is just about what you can never run away from - or rather should never run away from - as the Ewaffe gives.
The colours, textures, shapes, aromas, and endless variety of flavours make fruits an enormous pleasure not only to shop for, but also to eat and this is exactly what happens at Ewaffe.
It's like an organic fruit teaser here. Bananas, jack fruit, guavas, mangoes, oranges, sugarcane, goose berries, raspberries... and all you need are a belly and a mouth.
But the welcome is not done. Nature is never in a hurry and these guys make everything elaborate to a fault. After the fruit juice and the fruits themselves, come smoked coffee cherries.
We have to chew this and wash it down with a clay pot of water - part of the welcome.
Medicinal trail
Touring the medicinal trail is another way to experience the village's efforts in bringing the Kiganda culture - that is increasingly being threatened by modern culture - to life.
"On this trail are all kinds of medicinal plants you have ever thought of. For example, we have Aloe vera which is used to treat fever, skin diseases and removing scars. Lemon grass which is put in tea, works as insect repellant and also treats bad odour, okra plant which is eaten as sauce, stabilises sugar levels, mint and many other plants," Emmanuel Makoha, a guide at Ewaffe, says.
It would take one at least two hours to view all the plants along the medicinal trail. Not sure many visitors would be keen on that; you would either be belching a cocktail of fruit smell or eager to get back to another round of fruity.
Therapeutic nature walk
The village is a collection of several plant species that one cannot help falling in love with the aura of nature and eating wild fruits along the way as you head to the well named Nnalongo.
One cannot fail to notice the power of nature over their soul whereas the skin's pours keep breathing with this nature walk.
"In Buganda Nnalongo is the mother of twins. This well was named Nnalongo because as the mother of the twins loves her children, it also loves people of this place and it never gets dry even in dry conditions," Makoha says.
A group of visitors fetch water from the well using clay pots as a way of experiencing "Nnalongo's love" and take the therapeutic walk back.
Meanwhile, a marathon of other exciting activities including making of bark cloths, weaving of baskets and mats as well as making of banana juice are the other parts of the itinerary for educational and adventure purposes.
Delight in Luwombo
Since time immemorial, the Baganda have reserved luwombo for festive occasions such as kwanjula, weddings and other formal functions.
Whereas most stews are cooking in a saucepan and then served in dishes, luwombo leaf is an all-round utensil that leaves you with only the eating to do once it is ready.
"The luwombo leaf serves as a saucepan cum serving utensil. This is precisely what makes it so attractive and lends class and distinction to any meal be it beef, chicken or ground nuts sauce," Justine Nanyonga says.
"It therefore prepared in an organic way that makes it not only delicious but also healthy."
She mentions that during those days, whenever a man returned home to a ground nuts luwombo, this was a signal to something.
"In Luganda, ground nuts sauce is called nsanyuse, to mean I happy for you. Whenever a man returned home and found the wife had prepared nsanyuse luwombo, this was a sign of the good things that awaited him that night. Therefore, a luwombo meal communicated many things in a home."
She says the actual banana leaf that is used is from Nakitembe and that the leaf is smoked over firewood until it becomes a yellowish-brown in colour.
Smoking of the leaf is not a Johny-go-lucky activity that just about anyone can do. For luwombo, art meets the food science and that art practice of smoking is one that needs own expertise.
Nanyonga adds that after smoking, the banana leaf is put in a basket with banana fires and the smoked sauce - in case of chicken or beef - is placed in and onions, tomatoes and salt are added.
"You add little water, wrap the package and put in a saucepan to prepare," she says.
Served with matooke, yams, sweet potatoes, cassava and greens, it was a moment to savour. This was chicken luwombo and, of course, at Ewaffe Village, it goes down with a glass of natural juice.
"This is the kind of food that families of those days used to enjoy. It would give them health and strength since it was always organic,"Nanyonga says.
Local DNA testing
Among the many activities to marvel at is the distinct DNA system used by the Baganda to determine paternity of children, known locally as 'okwalula abaana'.
"Whenever a child was born, they would wait for the umbilical cord to get off and keep it for the day of testing the child's paternity in front of clan members," Nanyonga says.
She adds on the day of DNA testing, certain rituals were made and these would ably determine the paternity of the child.
Through this process, elders can ably ascertain whether the child belongs to the clan. It is joy all over the place for the women if the test turns out positive but a moment to despair, if it turns out negative.
In most cases, if the woman is not sure of the paternity of the child, she wouldn't accept the local DNA test.
Enock Nsubuga, a travel media and marketing enthusiast at Nile Guide Homes Online describes the trip as one that quenched his thirst for cultural adventure.
"This unique center allows you to step back in time and experience Buganda cultural norms and traditions first-hand, as they were in the African Traditional Society era. One of the highlights of my visit was the opportunity to learn and experience various activities that are typically depicted in movies and books. I witnessed the mesmerizing bark-cloth making process, where skilled artisans transform tree bark into beautiful and intricate designs. The weaving of baskets and mats was also a fascinating demonstration of traditional craftsmanship," Nsubuga says.
He describes Ewaffe as one that offers a truly immersive experience.
"Aside from the cultural activities, the village setting itself is scenic and charming. The tranquil atmosphere transports you to a different era, away from the hustle and bustle of modern life. It truly is a place where you can relax and appreciate the beauty of Uganda's heritage. I strongly recommend Ewaffe Cultural Village as a must-visit destination for anyone interested in immersing themselves in Buganda culture."
"It is an ideal place to take your children to learn about their roots and heritage. Additionally, it is a perfect spot to entertain visiting friends or relatives, providing them with an authentic and unforgettable experience.I can confidently say that Ewaffe Cultural Village is a gem for tour operators and organizers. Its unique selling point and immersive experiences make it a fantastic addition to any itinerary."
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Conserve for generations
According to Aisha Nabwanika, the founder of Ewaffe cultural village, the need to conserve Ugandan cultures saw her initiate the idea of a cultural village.
"Uganda is blessed with so many unique cultures that many people don't know about. For example, few things are known about the Kiganda culture. Not so many people know how the Baganda prepare food, brew local beer, make handcrafts, do fishing and above all the work of kojjas and ssengas in a home," Nabwanika says.
"There are traditional games as part of the Kiganda culture. All these are alien to many, including those who live in Buganda. We thought by creating a culture village, we can bring this to life but also conserve these cultures for generations to come," she adds.
She says apart from bringing culture to life, the country can earn from it.
"These things are new to tourists and they are willing to pay and adventure. However, as a country, we have not invested in this line of tourism. I think cultural tourism is something the country can earn a lot from," Nabwanika adds.
The Ewaffe cultural village founder calls for support for cultural tourism.
Culture is what makes us unique as a destination and is a competitive advantage we have over others. Therefore, support for cultural tourism development is required. For example, at Ewaffe, we engage a number of community members including women and youths which provides employment opportunities directly and indirectly."
She says they host schools for study trips at Ewaffe , adding that they are planning to erect accommodation facilities for home stay.
Currently, international guests are charged shs100,000, shs60,000 for domestic guests, and shs35000 for students per person but must be in in groups of between five to 30 people.
Nabwanika says the fee doesn't include transport to the facility .
