Italian Fascists used cycling to demonstrate their racial superiority; Eritrean cyclists were soon embarrassing them. Today, a new generation of world-beaters is escaping another tyrant - and, paradoxically, uniting the nation.
Cycling in Eritrea, much like the architectural designs of Asmara that earned it UNESCO recognition as an African Modernist City, is a colonial legacy transformed by Eritrean passion and resilience. Though introduced by the Italians in the late 19th century, the sport has become a vital part of Eritrean culture and identity. Today, Eritrean cyclists compete on the global stage, embodying the resilience and determination of a nation that has faced numerous challenges.
I grew up in Agordat, a town in western Eritrea, 175 kilometres from the capital, Asmara. While bicycles were present, they were a luxury few could afford, and cycling wasn't yet deeply ingrained in the local culture. My father owned a bicycle, which was uncommon, and I often rode with him, sitting on the crossbar as he pedalled through town. I learned to ride a bicycle when I was about 12, the same age Biniam Girmay won his first mountain bike competition in Asmara.
In Agordat, we didn't have the luxury of smaller, three-tyre bicycles for kids, so we learned to ride on full-sized bikes. As an agricultural hub, Agordat was well-designed with broad, open streets -- a legacy of Italian colonial planning. Despite the negative impacts of colonialism, the infrastructure they left behind, including wide streets perfect for cycling, remains a benefit to this day. The only problem was that the streets were not paved, thus punctures were common. Nearly every school day ended with one of the young explorers coming out to show the girls how skilled he was with his bicycle. I'm not sure if that made him more popular with girls. The town even had a bicycle rental shop, a precursor to the modern bike-sharing systems we see today. In a small town where everybody knew each other, renting was based on confidence. It was hard to manage time because few people had watches, and there would occasionally be arguments if someone was late. The bicycle shop, along with repair services, were to be found in every Eritrean town and were popular, especially during holidays.
While Agordat didn't have formal cycling clubs or competitions, the town's flat terrain made cycling a popular past-time. In Asmara, bicycles are affectionately called Bishkeleta, a term derived from Italian; in Agordat, they are known as Ajelet, from the Arabic word. Italy, which colonised Eritrea from 1890 to 1941, introduced bicycles in 1898, initially for postal deliveries in Massawa. Over time, bicycles gained popularity among Italians in the colony, leading to the establishment of a cycling federation in 1936 and the first organised race in 1937. However, Eritreans were excluded from both the city centre and competitions. When Eritreans were finally allowed to compete with Italians in 1939, Eritrea's Ghebremariam Ghebru won the race, shattering the myth of Italian Fascist supremacy.
Today, Eritrea is considered one of Africa's top cycling nations, with a passionate fan base. Every Sunday, during cycling competitions in Asmara, thousands of Eritreans line the streets, cheering on their favourite teams and cyclists. In the 1930s and 1940s, cycling clubs began to form in Asmara, and the sport quickly took hold among Eritreans. Local races, such as the 'Gran Premio della Liberazione', became a regular fixture, and cycling grew into a symbol of modernity and national pride.
Cycling has since become deeply embedded in Eritrean culture. Young Eritreans are inspired by the country's cycling heroes, and events like the Tour of Eritrea offer opportunities for emerging talent to shine on both the national and regional stages.
In recent years, Eritrean cycling has made remarkable strides on the global stage, defying the limitations of the country's size and resources. While Eritrea has long been a dominant force in African cycling, it is now gaining increasing recognition internationally. This success is a source of pride for Eritreans, uniting people across political divides in a way few other achievements have. Cyclists like Biniam Girmay, who made history by winning the green jersey at the 2024 Tour de France, symbolise this newfound unity. Eritrea's cycling prowess has been widely covered by Western outlets like the Washington Post, BBC, and, memorably, The Economist, under the title, "Saddled with Problems," which described cycling as Eritrea's "unofficial fifth state-sanctioned religion". Eritrean cyclists also made it to Cyclingnews headlines and many other media in different languages.
Changing the image of Africa's 'North Korea'
This success stands in stark contrast to Eritrea's reputation in other areas. For years, the country was known globally for human rights abuses, indefinite national service, and the desperate exodus of its youth. In sports, Eritrea gained notoriety for the frequent defections of its football players during regional competitions, with over 65 players fleeing between 2006 and 2019. Among these, 16 players defected in Kenya (2006, 2009, 2013), 19 in Tanzania (2007, 2011), and 22 in Uganda (2012, 2019), including 15 players and their team physician in 2012. Additionally, 10 players sought asylum in Botswana in 2015. In contrast, Eritrean cyclists have not only gained international recognition but have also found legitimate paths to success without the need to defect. This difference can be attributed to the global support and opportunities available to cyclists, along with a stronger sense of national identity in Eritrean cycling culture.
Football emphasises teamwork and collective goals, while cycling often highlights individual endurance and personal glory. This difference may also explain why Eritrean cyclists are thriving on the world stage, while footballers struggle to find similar success.
Success and the geography-genetics nexus
In addition to the legacy and culture, not immediately apparent in neighbouring countries such as Ethiopia and Kenya, the country's geography offers several key advantages to cyclists, contributing to the national success in the sport. Asmara, the capital, sits at around 2,400 meters above sea level. Training at high altitudes helps cyclists develop greater lung capacity and endurance, as the reduced oxygen levels force the body to adapt. This gives Eritrean cyclists a competitive edge when they compete at lower altitudes in international races, as their endurance and stamina are naturally enhanced through altitude training.
Eritrea's diverse landscape features mountainous regions, rolling hills, and flatlands. The country offers a range of challenging terrains, from steep climbs in the highlands, to long, flat stretches along the Red Sea coast. This allows Eritrean cyclists to develop a well-rounded set of skills, including climbing, sprinting, and endurance racing. Eritrea enjoys a relatively mild and dry climate, especially in the highland regions like Asmara, where temperatures are comfortable all year round. This climate is ideal for outdoor training, allowing cyclists to train consistently without extreme weather interruptions.
The well-maintained, wide roads built during the Italian colonial period, particularly in cities like Asmara, provide cyclists with excellent conditions for training. Additionally, the renowned winding road from Asmara to the port city of Massawa, with its sharp bends and steep descents, provides an ideal environment for honing technical skills in both downhill and uphill cycling. It's fascinating to witness locals who live along this route cycle daily to and from Asmara. During the uphill sections, some grab onto the backs of slow-moving trucks heading towards the city, while on the descent, they speed down with remarkable agility, skilfully navigating through traffic and occasionally dodging camels on the road.
Global recognition
Eritrea's advantageous geography has undoubtedly contributed to its cyclists' global success. Over the past few years, Eritrean cyclists have made a significant impact on the international stage. Key milestones include Natnael Berhane who cycles for Lidl-Trek, becoming the first African to win the Tropicale Amissa Bongo in 2014, and Daniel Teklehaimanot who rode for the South African team, MTN-Qhubeka making history as the first Eritrean to compete in the Tour de France in 2015, where he also won the King of the Mountains classification during the Critérium du Dauphiné. He was last associated with Team Dimension Data and later rode for Cofidis until 2018.
Biniam Girmay further elevated Eritrea's status when, in 2021, he became the first Black African to finish on the podium at the UCI (Union Cycliste Internationale) Road World Championships. His 2024 victory in the Tour de France's Green Jersey category marked another historic achievement. The UCI with headquarters in Aigle, Switzerland, oversees the national cycling federations worldwide.
Eritrean cyclists have consistently excelled in the African Continental Cycling Championships, with prominent figures like Merhawi Kudus and Henok Mulubrhan both riding for World Team Astana Qazaqstan, alongside, Amanuel Ghebreigzabhier, and Natnael Tesfatsion who represent Lidl-Trek. These athletes continue to make their mark in international competitions, showcasing Eritrea's growing influence in global cycling events.
The challenges to success
To be a successful cyclist is demanding physically and mentally. Those who make it are those relatively better off, well fed, mentally and physically resilient and who have a little luxury to train regularly with discipline, but above all who have a passion for the sport. Despite their international success, Eritrean cyclists face significant challenges, both on and off the circuit. The government prioritises military spending over the development of sports, leaving cycling clubs with scarce resources, outdated equipment, and inadequate training facilities. This is further reflected in the appointment of sports commissioners, who are often senior military or political officials with little to no connection to sports, limiting progress in athletic development. Financial constraints, lack of private sponsorship, and poor infrastructure make it difficult for athletes to develop their skills.
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Additionally, restrictive travel policies complicate international competition, as securing visas and government approval can be challenging. European countries are also reluctant to give visas to Eritreans as the country is one of the biggest refugees producing countries in the world. In 2014 Three young Eritreans--Meron Teshome, Metkel Eyob and Tesfom Okubamariam--were invited to attend the Training Centre of the International Cycling Union, in Switzerland, but were denied entry visas. Many athletes come from humble beginnings, often juggling intense training with other jobs to make ends meet and afford a proper diet, which can further limit their progress. In the early 1990s, a boxer tragically collapsed and died in the ring after just a few blows. This led some Eritreans to remark, "How can someone take up boxing while surviving on Shiro (a cheap popular chickpea dish) every day?" The threat of defections, particularly among footballers, has also strained the sports environment, contributing to a "sports migration" that drains local talent. Eritrean cyclists who have gained international recognition and ride for continental or global teams are fortunate to have overcome significant barriers. For young athletes still in Eritrea, however, securing sponsorships and obtaining permission from the regime to compete abroad presents a daunting challenge.
Despite the many challenges Eritrean cyclists face -- ranging from inadequate resources to a government that prioritises military service over athletic development -- cycling remains a symbol of resilience and national pride. The sport not only unites Eritreans across political divides but also showcases the country's capacity to shine on the global stage. As Eritrean cyclists continue to achieve remarkable success internationally, they embody the spirit of determination that has defined the nation throughout its history. However, for this success to be sustained, there must be greater support for the next generation of athletes. Eritrean cycling, born from a colonial legacy, has evolved into a passionate pursuit, but its future will depend on how well the country nurtures this growing talent amidst its socio-political realities. Whether Eritrea can continue to build on its hard-earned cycling recognition remains to be seen, but the dedication of its cyclists is undeniable.
Mohamed Kheir Omer is an African-Norwegian researcher and writer based in Oslo, Norway. He is a former member of the Eritrean Liberation Front (ELF).
