Rwanda: The Resurgence of Amasunzu and the Legacy of Black Resistance

13 February 2025

In recent years, young Rwandans have been part of a decolonial movement, whether consciously or not. Some of the most visible expressions of this can be seen in fashion, where the suit and tie are increasingly replaced by colorful shirts with traditional designs and the ceremonial wearing of cultural attire.

Traditional music and dance also enjoy widespread support. Young people are both performers and patrons of their own heritage, actively restoring the authenticity of Rwandan culture.

Some may call this cultural awareness, but what if it is also a sign of colonial resistance?

One often-overlooked aspect of this movement is hair. The Amasunzu hairstyle, once a marker of pride and identity, is making a comeback after more than 60 years of decline.

While it is mostly styled by traditional performers and artists, a broader natural hair movement is also underway.

Yes, Africa gained independence decades ago, but the systemic and strategic injustices inflicted during colonial rule continue to have lasting effects. True self-sustenance remains an ongoing struggle. But let's talk about hair as a tool for resistance.

For centuries, European colonial powers justified their inhumane treatment of Africans by constructing a narrative of racial superiority. Rooted in pseudoscience and cultural imperialism, this ideology positioned Europeans as more "evolved" and "civilized," while Africans were portrayed as primitive, uncultured, and inferior.

These fabricated hierarchies legitimized the transatlantic slave trade and colonial exploitation, embedding the notion that whiteness represented beauty, progress, and civility, while blackness was associated with ugliness and barbarism.

During slavery and colonialism, these ideas were weaponized to strip Africans and their descendants of their identity, instilling a deep sense of alienation. European powers systematically dismantled indigenous cultures, replacing them with Eurocentric ideals of beauty, behavior, and governance.

Africans were coerced into adopting these standards--dressing in European styles and altering their hair to align with Eurocentric notions of acceptability. Natural hairstyles were stigmatized as unkempt or uncivilized, while straightened hair became a necessity for social and economic survival.

In response, Africans across the continent and the diaspora began resisting these imposed standards. By reclaiming their original cultural values and aesthetics, they asserted pride in their identity and heritage.

Hairstyles, in particular, became a potent form of resistance. From Afros to dreadlocks, black people used their hair to challenge narratives of inferiority and embrace their natural beauty.

Beyond Amasunzu, styles like Uruhanika and Ibisage are also making a resurgence in Rwanda. However, the broader "natural hair movement" did not originate here. In fact, during the Civil Rights Movement and the subsequent Black Power Movement of the 1960s and 1970s, the Afro emerged as a powerful symbol of resistance.

Worn unapologetically by activists and members of groups like the Black Panther Party, the Afro rejected the idea that Black people needed to straighten their hair to assimilate or succeed. By embracing their natural curls and coils, they defied Eurocentric beauty standards and celebrated their blackness.

The slogan "Black is Beautiful" became central to this movement, promoting pride in natural hair textures, skin tones, and features. The Afro embodied self-empowerment, activism, and solidarity, inspiring generations of Black people to reclaim their identity and demand social justice.

Similarly, dreadlocks have deep roots in resistance and spirituality. For many formerly enslaved people, growing locks after emancipation was a way to reject Eurocentric beauty standards and reconnect with their African heritage.

The Rastafari movement, which began in Jamaica in the 1930s, popularized dreadlocks as a symbol of spiritual strength, freedom, and resistance to colonial oppression. Drawing inspiration from the Lion of Judah, a symbol of strength and divine connection, Rastafarians grew locks to represent their rejection of societal norms and their faith in a higher power.

Dreadlocks gained global prominence through reggae music, particularly through the influence of artists like Bob Marley. As reggae spread worldwide, so did the cultural and spiritual significance of dreadlocks. They became a universal symbol of individuality, authenticity, and defiance against oppression.

By the 1970s, Afrocentric hairstyles had crossed oceans and continents. In Europe, the influx of Jamaican and Caribbean immigrants introduced metropolitan cities like London, Birmingham, Paris, and Amsterdam to Rastafarian practices, reggae music, and Black hair culture.

These communities not only enriched European urban centers with their vibrant cultures but also inspired many Europeans to adopt elements of Black aesthetics, music, and spirituality.

Meanwhile, in Africa, post-colonial generations embraced these symbols of resistance as part of a broader effort to reclaim their identities. The influence of Afro hairstyles and dreadlocks was evident in the growing pride among African youth, who rejected colonial legacies and sought to revive and celebrate their cultural heritage.

This transatlantic exchange of ideas and aesthetics reinforced the global impact of Black resistance movements.

The narratives surrounding Afrocentric hairstyles reflect a broader struggle against alienation and oppression. From the forced assimilation of colonial eras to the empowering movements of the 20th century, Black hair has remained a canvas for resistance, identity, and cultural celebration.

It is commendable that Rwandan youth are taking it upon themselves to redefine their identity by learning from their ancestors and taking pride in colonial resistance through language, dress, design, and other cultural expressions.

Embracing natural hair is not just about style--it is a statement of resilience, cultural pride, and an assertion of self-worth in the face of historical erasure.

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