High prices mean the best calamari is sold overseas and local plates get second-rate quality.

The next time you order calamari in a South African restaurant, keep this in mind: you will most likely be served imported squid that is generally second rate. Virtually all top-quality squid caught off our shores is destined for export.

This correspondent and calamari consumer was blissfully unaware of this state of affairs until I recently did a four-day hike known as the Chokka Trail in and around Cape St Francis. The hike itself, covering about 55km in total, was spectacular and scenic, involving ambles over ancient sand dunes and beaches and through thickets of lush coastal vegetation.

But the most revealing aspect came at the end when we had a tasting paired with white wine at Clive's Chokka Block Restaurant in Port St Francis, owned by Clive Canter. This was no run-of-the-mill tasting.

Canter launched into a detailed one-hour description of the chokka squid (Loligo reynaudii) and the industry built on it, including a demonstration of the jigs and hand lines used to catch the mollusc.

There was even a brief biology lesson with chokka cadavers on display. Equipped with eight arms, two tentacles...