Nigeria: Reporter's Diary - a Journey Through the Prophet's City, Madina

Pilgrims, according to the National Hajj Commission of Nigeria (NAHCON), spend five days in the city of the prophet, pray in his mosque, and visit some of the historic and religious sites

When Musa Kabir, a first-time pilgrim from Niger State, landed at the Prince Mohammad Bin Abdulaziz International Airport in Madina, he could not contain his emotion from being in the city Prophet Mohammed once called home.

"Alhamdulahi, I have the privilege and mercy to step my foot in this town," Mr Kabir said in Hausa. The emotional pronouncement was similar for many of the Nigerian pilgrims.

The moment would have been a pleasant one for this reporter to capture in a video, if not for the strict policy of the Saudi authorities against pictures and videos at their airports.

At the airport, pilgrims, alongside this reporter, were welcomed by the medical team and immigration officers, who did a quick check of travelling documents and offered the pilgrims a tablet, later discovered to be Ciprofloxacin, an antibiotic given to pilgrims from the African meningitis belt.

The serenity of the airport in Madina was a departure from the chaotic scene they experienced in Nigeria. For the officials in Madina, the experience gained from years of managing millions of pilgrims annually, perhaps explains the efficiency at the airport.

In less than 30 minutes, the 378 pilgrims from Niger State were cleared and led into buses for the 21 kilometres journey to Al-Haram, where the mosque of the prophet is located.

The pilgrims, according to the National Hajj Commission of Nigeria (NAHCON), will spend five days in the city of the prophet, pray in his mosque, and visit some of the historic and religious sites.

Welcome to the Al-Masjid An-Nabawi

For first-time pilgrims, the Prophet's Mosque represents the perfect combination of architecture, technology and spirituality.

The architecture and technology at the mosque represent the current century. The shading umbrellas protect pilgrims from the blazing sun, which at its peak hours could be as high as 47 degree Celsius. The cooling system is definitely not from the time of the prophet.

The deployment of technology and architectural expansion of the mosque is making the process seamless.

On the spiritual side, this mosque is one of the two holiest sites in the Islamic world. Pilgrims get to visit the burial site of the prophet and also pray in the mosque he once led prayer.

Money and internet

In the age of information technology, one other important need for a pilgrim is access to the internet. Even though there is globalisation, cyberspace still highly follows sovereign/territorial lines. Pilgrims have two options in Madina - use the free Wi-Fi at hotels, airports and other public spaces or get the local lines.

In Saudi Arabia, there is also a provision for pilgrims with valid visas to register a SIM card for their stay. With 104 Riyal ($27), one can purchase a SIM card and also get 200 minutes of international calls and 20 gigabytes to access the internet for 28 days. However, there is restriction on voice and video calls on WhatsApp.

But first, you need Riyal, the local currency of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. There are several bureaux de change around the hotels and Al-Haram. A hundred US dollars will get you 370 Riyal.

Nigerian pilgrims, under the state welfare board, get a basic travel allowance (BTA) of $700, which is about RA1,850.

Even though it is expected to be a "Holy land", one needs to be extra-careful when it comes to money. Nigeria already recorded one casualty relating to money.

According to Usman Galadima, the medical team lead in Madina, an old man died from cardiac arrest after he was duped by an unscrupulous money changer.

"In Madina, we have recorded one death. That death was due to cardiac arrest from an elderly man. His money was stolen, and then he became depressed. He went to the toilet, then slumped," he said.

With money in the pocket and the internet up, the city offers historical sites like Uhud, where the prophet fought a major battle. About 70 of his companions, including his uncle, Hamzat were buried there.

One can also visit Badr battleground, Qubaa and Quiblatayn mosques.

Taxis can take pilgrims around, and a team of three can visit all these sites with 70 Riyal.

For this reporter, one major thing proved to be a challenge, the weather.

The sun rises around 5:33 a.m. in Madina, and by 7:00 a.m., pilgrims are already seeking shelter from the scorching sun. The air conditioning systems in hotels and mosques offer the needed shelter, but experts would still warn, "avoid black clothes and drink sufficient water to avoid dehydration".

Travelling to Makkah

The stay in Madina is not part of the Hajj rites, just an opportunity to see the city of the Prophet. Hajj is in Makkah, an over 420-kilometre journey. Pilgrims will get the opportunity to observe Umrah and Hajj in Makkah.

To embark on the journey to Makkah, a pilgrim needs what is called "Ihram", a two-piece garment--a loin cloth and a shawl. Most shops in Medina sell the Ihram for between 30 Riyal and 100 Riyal, depending on your power to haggle and bargain.

The process also involves stopping at Miqat, a station along the Madina route, where pilgrims can make their intention to embark on Umrah. At Miqat, they can perform the bath ritual and put on Ihram. Women are exempted from using Ihram - rather, wear clothes that are not too colourful.

Afterwards, as they embark on the over-400-kilometre journey, they can chant the Labbayka Umrah.

Labbayka Umrah

"I answer your call with (Umrah)

Labbayk Allahumma labbayk.

Labbayk la shareeka laka labbayk.

Innal handa wan ni 'imara laka wal mulk

La shareeka lak

"Here I am at Your service O Lord, here I am.

Here I am. There is no partner to You.

Here I am. the dominion.

Truly, the praise and favour is Yours, and

There is no partner to You"

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