African Fashion — Arguably, one of the fashion designers of his time who still commands a lot of respect and relevance, Clement Mudiaga Enajemo, better known as Mudi Africa, who recently marked his 30th in the needle and thread business tells Vanessa Obioha that probing the source of his wealth used to make him angry, but not anymore
He was running late. The usual culprits, traffic and long fuel queues were to blame for his tardiness. Yet when Clement Mudiaga Enajemo, better known by his brand name Mudi Africa, finally arrived at the venue of the scheduled interview on a recent Tuesday evening, there was no trace of agitation. He still turned heads with his appearance and calmness. He was sporting a striking ensemble: a peach V-neck t-shirt underneath an unbuttoned peach shirt paired with peach and white striped trousers. On his neck was a beaded necklace. Completing his look was a stylish peach and white footwear. His signature hairstyle, the mohawk, added a little bit of flair.
Mudi's distinctive style has, in many ways, been key to his enduring relevance in the fashion industry. He is arguably one of the few--if not the only--fashion designers of his generation who still commands such respect in the needle-and-thread business, especially at a time when evolving trends and technology have ushered in a new wave of fashion creatives. His blend of retro designs with modern elements has ensured that his clientele remains at the top echelons of society.
Having recently celebrated his 30th anniversary, Mudi has secured his place among Nigeria's fashion icons. If you asked him the secret to his success, he would likely attribute it to his boldness in taking risks. But when asked what has most baffled him on this journey, he paused, searching for the right words.
With his hands resting on his chin, he gazed ahead, as though lost in a moment of reflection. After a while, he responded:
"There are times when I sit at my office, I will look around the office, my Mudi Lane in Anthony, then I think about the new outlet in Lekki and my other outlets in Ghana, Ivory Coast, Kenya. These are shops that I paid for, not franchises. I bought official branded cars for these outlets. When I look at all of these things, with all sense of humility, I tell myself that I have done well," he said. "First of all, I give God the glory for the talent, the gift, the ability to keep driving on, to keep pushing. If you check where I'm coming from, I believe I have done very well."
Indeed, Mudi has every reason to be grateful for his journey, one defined by resilience and ambition. In 1993, a young Mudi, fresh from his role as a dressmaker's assistant, launched his label - then simply called Mudi - from a modest apartment in Ketu. Official operations began the following year, and by 2009, he had expanded his brand, adding 'Africa' to its name.
"It was when I opened my first outlet out of Nigeria, that's in Ghana, that I adopted Africa. I realised that most prominent fashion brands attached their brand to a particular territory. For example, YSL Paris. I'm an African. So I have to embrace my identity."
Mudi could have chosen to add 'Nigeria' instead of Africa. He, however, explained his choice this way:
"I believe Africa unites us all. They say every Black man is an African. I believe so. I'm, first of all, a proud Urhobo man, a Nigerian, and an African. Africa is like a symbol to promote my talent and creativity as an African."
That formula seemed to have worked perfectly for him as he is one of the few Nigerian designers to have dressed African icons. Think of King Mohammed V of Morocco, President of Ghana John Kufuor, African music legends Salif Keita and Youssou N'dour, Nollywood greats Richard Mofe-Damijo and Ramsey Nouah, football icons like Mikel Obi and John Fashanu, they all had worn his creations.
For some of these prominent figures, Mudi strategically leveraged their popularity to promote his brand, while for others, like the King of Morocco, it was his services that were sought out.
"I was called to dress the King of Morocco," he explained. "From the information I got, he wanted to go to five places in Lagos during his visit to Nigeria. I was at the Intercontinental Hotel when I received the call that my fashion house had been pencilled as the only fashion house he would visit in Lagos. That he was coming to The Mainland to see my fashion house and Fela Shrine. So he came. I didn't lobby for it nor did I plan it. I just believe that anything you do, just put your heart into it, over time 'water will find level.' People will know about you and they will compliment and appreciate you."
While Mudi has long relied on traditional advertising to promote his brand - "I was the first fashion brand to have a billboard in Ghana," he proudly noted - the demands of the digital age have pushed him to adapt. Today, he uses social media to promote his work, though his rich clientele ensures that his creations often speak for themselves.
He is frequently surprised when people effortlessly recognise his designs. He finds it almost supernatural, given that he doesn't attach any emblem that boldly announces his name.
"But they can identify my work. They can see the simplicity with a touch of elegance."
Over the years, Mudi's lifestyle has attracted its share of snide remarks. Some claim he launders money, others suggest he is gay, while some even believe he belongs to a cult. Whenever asked to address these perceptions, Mudi carefully explains that it is diligence and God's favour that have elevated him to his current status.
His first fashion house, located in the Anthony area of Lagos, certainly adds to the speculation. The eye-catching building never fails to grab the attention of passersby. With a walkway lined with gleaming white stone and lush green grass that enhances the landscaping, it is an architectural spectacle.
Beyond his visually striking fashion outlets, Mudi's love for vintage cars and his residence in Lagos' upscale neighborhoods fuel further curiosity. His wealthy clientele only deepens the speculation about whether it's only 'tailoring' that could have brought him such affluence.
There was a time when these rumours would have angered him, but today he understands that such tales often stem from ignorance or envy.
"A designer of my repute abroad will have a private jet. If I put 30 years into my work abroad, I will not be here. I will have a private jet. But I don't have that," he said.
What many people do not realise is that most of Mudi's property acquisitions were acts of faith. Take, for example, his fashion house in Anthony--he had to sell some of his possessions to secure the place. Similarly, with his recently acquired outlet in Lekki, Mudi often embarked on these purchases without having the full amount upfront.
"For the one in Lekki, I didn't even have up to half the sum of the money when I proposed to buy the property."
God's favour, however, was on his side as the agent turned out to be once a student of his lawyer. Again, properties were sold, and loans were taken before he could complete the purchase.
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The same goes for his vintage cars.
"I have never gone to buy a car with the full amount of money," he said.
He shared how he bought his classic Mercedes Benz car.
"It was one of my clients who lived in Germany. One of those times he visited Nigeria, we were in the office, taking inventory, when he mentioned that he had a neighbour who had this car. I didn't have the complete cash but I offered to pay the money into his account till I completed payment."
"There are times when I even look at my lifestyle, I think it's enough to suspect me," he said. "It's easy for someone who doesn't understand me to think that I'm doing something else.
But I have seen that these thoughts come from two places. First ignorance. Some people don't believe that you can make money from fashion design. While some know that you can make money from this industry, they wonder why you are the only one making it. That's jealousy."
"But there are times I begin to imagine," he continued. "After 30 years, am I not supposed to be in an elevated position? At times it can be painful particularly when you know what you are worth. But when you know your conscience and are steadfast, you will not be bothered."
Since he marked his 30th anniversary, one thought that has continually resurfaced for the Delta State fashion designer is the number of lives he has impacted along the way.
"Touching lives in Ghana, Kenya, Ivory Coast and other places. Just hearing their stories and how I have inspired them gives me a sense of fulfillment. So na me be this."
